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Great Greek grub

BRENT MEERSMAN - Oct 23 2009 06:00
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In Greece they love eating out, leisurely, whiling away the night quaffing vast quantities of resin-flavoured wine. They don’t actually care about the food. For a start, they smoke like industrial chimneys even in the smartest restaurants.

Greece, where 40% of the population self-fumigate, was the last country (this July) in Western Europe to introduce non-smoking sections. Small premises are still exempt.

We might loathe the nanny state, but living all these years smoke-free, it’s a shock when in some quaint tavern someone lights up next to you, ending your epicurean delight, your taste buds contaminated, the aromas from your dish absorbed in carcinogenic smog.

Anyone travelling around Greece soon learns there is no quality base- line. You take your chances. Unlike Turkey, where if it isn’t delightful, a restaurant will not survive.

Not so on the most popular resort islands of the Cyclades and in the tourist quarters of Athens. Yet I’ve had sublime cuisine while cruising the Ionian Islands, such as Lefkas and Kefalonia, or Meganisi, which is only accessible by yacht. In one quaint establishment in Ithaca the floor was at such a slant, it felt as if one was still on the boat.

Greek restaurants have cast themselves far and wide. I know of two in Tokyo, which has a total population of about 90 Greeks. South Africa has them in every major city and, for the nostalgic package tourist, in many seaside resorts -- Hermanus, St Francis Bay, Knysna and Umhlanga Rocks for instance.

Greek gastronomy is straightforward: use the tastiest, freshest, best ingredients, treat them with care and patience and the results are stunning.

Start with the simple olive. You wouldn’t say the nasty little mass-produced, ferrous gluconate-dyed things we get served came from the spear of Pallas Athene when she struck the Acropolis. There are numerous delicious varieties of this strongly flavoured oval fruit -- all absent from our plates.

For olives, the Greek in Mowbray scored best in my survey of our Greek eateries. They were juicy, not soggy. Their lamb is okay and their yoghurt authentically thick. But their Greek salad erroneously contains iceberg lettuce and only a little feta, crumbled.

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The Greek salad that most closely approximates the real thing is at the Greek Fisherman: a solid slab of firm feta on top, ripe black olives, cubed cucumber, rings of reddish onion, no lettuce. Only the tomatoes disappoint. Not one of our Greek restaurants has anything near the sun-ripened beauties of the Mediterranean.

Their unleavened pita, which in many places is either doughy or hard as a Frisbee, was okay. The tzatziki has prominent garlic and the hummus is the correct consistency. The moussaka (R99) arrives plated and with very little béchamel sauce on top, which I prefer, but the aubergine had all but cooked away, the potato is mashed, they use beef not lamb mince (though this is not uncommon).

They’re better at seafood. A small card of SQ prices for crayfish, oysters, langoustines and certain fishes is very helpful. A few pasta dishes pacify the hoi polloi of the Waterfront. The interior is in the now ubiquitous generic, four-star, international-hotel style. This is anything but a tavern. You wouldn’t throw a plate here. For that you must go to the rather gormless Leesia’s restaurant. It has dropped off the radar since it opened in 1993, but this is where office parties and rowdy family gatherings still throw plates and shout: “Opa!”

Music in our establishments is usually not Greek. The Fisherman played awful house-mix versions of film themes and eventually, perhaps hoping to get rid of us, moved on to some bouzouki as the dinner crowd emptied out. Why not some Maria Farnatouri? A little Theodorakis? I’d even settle for Melina Mercouri.

I remember as a school kid 25 years ago going to Aris Souvlaki. The late, charismatic Ari played traditional Greek music and smashed plates. After every few tracks, the music, still on home-made cassette, would be interrupted by him announcing: “I am Ari. Aris Souvlaki. I am the greatest in the world!”

The walls were studded with snapshots of patrons. You’ll find a picture of Telly Savalas (of Kojak fame) still on the wall.

It’s a rundown establishment these days, but survives on its cheap prices and casual attitude. You pay at the till on your way out.

Another legendary Greek restaurateur is Theodoros Vouiatzis of Zorba’s from the Seventies. He still does the rounds of the tables, but at his smart new premises in Milnerton.

Unfortunately, it faces away from the sea and they play generic elevator music, but the food is fine.

They slow cook a whole lamb and for R110 you get an assortment of chops and cuts, falling off the bone, full of flavour, the juice literally running out. Their meze (R55) is most generous, with big dolmades, the fishiest tarama, skordalia (garlic, potato purée), hummus, crispy calamari tentacles, somewhat bland meat balls and yesterday’s spanakopita. The feta is Danish. The baklava (R40) has the feel of a long wait in the fridge. The menu also has many northern suburbs favourites: steaks and spaghetti bolognaise.

But a restaurant is not only about food. If you include ambience and service, then the best of the Greeks is Marika’s, a family-run affair in a converted house. Wonderful sardines (R30), airy spanakopita that is not oily, perfectly cooked, firm whole baby kingklip (R105). The lamb (R99) was a little dry and unexceptional, the olives and tomatoes indifferent. All this is redeemed by the friendly, unrushed atmosphere, and that it is one of the few places that serve retsina (R165).
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Hi Brent

if you're looking for a great Greek restaurant you have got to try Plaka - the food is brilliant, I would even go as far as to say better than most places in Greece! try their flame grilled whole fish - its superb!
Jacqui
Jacqui Higgins on November 5, 2009, 12:20 pm
Dear Brent

Your article is impressionistic at best. It suffers from several kinds of ignorance: syntactical, lexical, orthographical and cultural.

1. What, pray, is the adverb "leisurely" doing stuck in curiously solitary apposition in your opening sentence?

2. "They don't actually care about the food." How do you know? Did they tell you so? And in the unlikely event that they did, you would have discovered the most counter-culture Greeks in existence. I highly recommend that, for a start, you read David Sutton's book "Remembrance of Repasts", Elia Petridou's essay "The Taste of Home" and anything by Michael Herzfeld so that you can understand how centrally important food is to Greeks.

3. I am trying to be generous in understanding "self-fumigate" as your rather awkward attempt at a clever witticism - fumigate comes from the Latin 'fumus' and 'agere' meaning to make smoke. Hence when Greeks self-fumigate they are making their own smoke -and poisoning themselves. But the problem is that fumigate has a range of other more dominant connotations - disinfecting being chief among them. Are you suggesting that Greeks are so dirty, so rodent-ridden, that they require lethal chemical treatment, that they should be exterminated? You needed to exercise more care when coming up with a way to express your anti-smoking sentiments.

4. From your article, I gather that you have been to Athens (but only to its most touristy areas), the Cyclades (all 220 islands? I suspect Mykonos and Santorini were all you visited. Both, as you yourself admit, firmly on the beaten track of international tourists), and the Ionian islands. And this less than vast or adventurous experience gives you the authority to say that there is no base-line of restaurant quality in Greece? It would have been more accurate to suggest that people avoid overly-touristy spots. Good advice when visiting any country. May I recommend that you actually travel beyond the usual tourist-riddled places.

5. Athena did not strike the Acropolis. I think you will find that it was Poseidon who struck the ground with his trident during a competition with Athena to become the patron deity of Athens. He offered the Athenians water, but it was brackish. Athena offered them the first domesticated olive trees and so won the city.

6. Please note that the ubiquitous salad South Africans call "Greek" is known as a "village salad" in Greece. Thank you for correctly pointing out that it does not contain lettuce. Finally, you got something right.

7. Shockingly, there are Greek wines other than retsina. You will discover this unsettling fact if you venture past the cliches of both South African "Greek" restaurants and the horrible touristy places in Greece itself. Although I am surprised that you did not mention Robola, a tourist favourite on Kefalonia.


8. Please note the correct spelling of Maria Farantouri's name. I regret to inform you that she often sang - and still sings - to the accompaniment of your much despised bouzoukia. Instruments of great importance to Mikis Theodorakis. But bravo for knowing that she exists and is an extraordinary singer.


Julie Kate Seirlis on January 15, 2010, 5:01 am
Thank you Julie. One of the joys of the internet is that as a journalist one gets to interact with one’s readers, and it’s especially valuable when the responses are intelligent.
1. But clearly you have a humour bypass. You also don’t understand the grammatical term apposition. Secondly, I checked my copy; some sub added in that comma, which I agree is a debatable choice.

2. You don’t seem to understand humour. Since you like to quote books at me, let me do the same. If you think I’m being facetious read the London Sunday Times food columnist AA Gill on food in Greece! “Greek food is unremittingly ghastly...best eaten drunk”. Even I took offence.

3. I am certainly not suggesting Greeks are anything like what you (ludicrously) want to suggest. AA Gill does that. And just for the record, Greek friends here in Cape Town thought the article highly enjoyable.

4.Yes, I have been to Athens, Thessaloniki, the islands, on and off the tourist beat – taken there by Greek friends in Greece – and elsewhere – so your guess work about where I have been and what I know is just plain wrong. You then proceed to repeat my own advice?

5. The myth of the olive tree is just that, a myth. I don’t know how to tell you this but it didn’t actually happen. There are various stories. My version comes from an authoritative source, as I am sure does yours.

6. Thank you for agreeing.

7. I know, there are Greek wines other than retsina, but it is uniquely Greek. That was the point.

8. I apologise for the typo on Farantouri’s name. If only the sub had checked that and not added commas! Also, there is no one correct spelling of Farantouri, because it is a transliteration from Greek. I have CDs of her work with her name spelled with a ‘t’ and some with a ‘d’. I have listened to her music for 15 years. I also know Theodorakis and I do not despise the bouzouki (spelt without an ‘a’ at the end in English).
Being a pedant is a dangerous thing. When correcting someone else, you usually make as many mistakes yourself.
Brent Meersman on February 18, 2010, 5:22 pm
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