/ 11 January 2011

Less tea leaves bitter taste

Climate change is affecting the cultivation of Assam tea, with rising temperatures reducing yields and altering the distinctive flavour of India’s most popular drink, researchers say.

High hills and abundant rainfall make the northeastern state of Assam an ideal place to grow tea, with 850 gardens spread over 320 000 hectares producing the majority of the country’s harvest.

But in the past 60 years rainfall has fallen by more than a fifth and the minimum temperature has risen by a degree to 19,5°C.

‘This is clearly climate change and it is bound to have a major impact on the tea industry,” said Debakanta Handique, a climate scientist in Assam.

The Tea Board of India said it had recorded a steady decline in tea production in recent years. In 2007 Assam produced 512 000 tonnes of tea. By 2008 this had declined to 487 000 tonnes, with estimated production in 2009 down again to 445 000. A further decrease is expected this year.

Mridul Hazarika, the director of Tocklai Tea Research, the oldest tea research station in the world, said rainfall and minimum temperature were two of the most important factors affecting both quality and quantity of harvests.

‘The decline has been taking place although there has been an increase in the area of tea cultivation. This is an indication of the seriousness of the threat,” said Hazarika.

Efficient rainwater harvesting and new breeds of tea plants are needed to reverse the trend. ‘Changes have already been observed in the flavour, but it is not possible to blame only climate change for this,” he said. ‘Other factors like the fertilisers used and cultivation methods are partly responsible.”

The changing taste of Assam tea is a serious concern for growers. Sudipta Nayan Goswami, an Assam-based planter, said: ‘The flavour has changed from what it was before. The creamy and strong flavour is no more.

‘The changes will sharply hamper the demand for this variety of tea abroad,” Goswami said. — Guardian News & Media 2011